My suspension lift is not from a single kit, per se.  I assembled various pieces available from different suppliers to give me a projected 2.5" lift.  I have ended up w/ 3" total front and back.  I originally had 21" hub center to edge of fender flare for both the front and rear.  I now have 24".  Or as some people like to measure, I'm now 15.5" rim to fender vs. 12.5" before.  I would expect some settling and sagging over time.  Overall, it was a 2 ¹/₂ banana job.  I had already installed TRD Bilsteins, so there wasn't a shock swap involved.   The lift was definitely a "economy" job.  Here's a breakdown of the costs:
                                                                PP 1" Progressive Springs                $370  ($315 if during 15% sale)
                                                                Downey 1.5" Billet Alum Spacers   $90
                                                                JC Whitney Coil "Stabilizers"            $16
So, for less than $500 you should be able to fit 285's on a 3rd gen.

Neither the PP springs, nor the Downey spacer came w/ directions.  I was left up to my own mechanical prowess (HAH! - I'm an engineer - I know what I'm doing - HAH!)

Here's my 4Runner looking dorky w/ a lift and no tires yet....

UPDATE:  Now w/ BFG AT/KO 285/75/16's....

As of right now, I can't wheel it until I do a few more things.  First, longer shocks will be necessary for the rear.  The stock length is the limiting factor on droop.  When I go past the factory articulation, the driveshaft WILL contact the gas tank skidplate.  I will either need to notch the skidplate, build another one, or come up w/ a new panhard arm drop bracket (no aftermarket available).  The rear axle when drooped will swing in an arc towards the drivers side.  With the panhard at such an angle when lifted, the entire axle will swing off center enough to contact the skidplate.  Getting the panhard back to a near stock angle should eliminate that problem.  The centrally located brake line will need to be lengthened when I go for longer travel as well.

The following is a guideline of how MY installation went.  I worked solo, but it's advised that you have a buddy in case you get your head taken off, someone can clean up the mess...It is not meant for others to use as a manual.  If you try to follow it and hurt or kill yourself, tough luck, I warned you.  This is meant to generally give someone an idea of the difficulty involved.  Nuff said....other than liberally use some penetrant before you get started!

REAR INSTALL
Total Time: 2 hrs w/ beer breaks (Hey, gotta have breakfast!)

I first removed the spare tire to give myself a little more room to work. 
The truck is supported w/ both wheels off the ground high enough w/ the frame on jackstands, so that when the wheels are removed, the axle can droop far enough that the factory springs will literally fall out.    The shocks will need to be unbolted at the bottom, and the swaybar (if you still have one) will need the endlinks disconnected to allow the axle to droop that far.  It would be a good idea to disconnect the little loop bracket that holds the ebrake cable to the axle housing as well.

The PP springs are 16.5" long, vs 16.0" for factory, which means to get the lift, the spring rate must be higher than stock.  That's OK by me, because I used to have butt-sag and bottom severely w/ the factory springs.  When combined w/ the JC Whitney spacer (P/N 84ZX0661Y  $7.99 ea!!!!), the overall length of the rear spring package is 18.5".  The JCW spacer fit the PP spring perfectly and fit up in the top spring seat like a glove.  Being that it is rubber, I'm afraid it may have a tendency to distort w/ age, and my butt sag will return.  Cornbred and others are now starting to make billet aluminum rear spacers, so I'll probably end up swapping these out - but you can't beat the price!

The driver's side is a little more difficult, but only because there's not as much room to work due to the gas tank.  Because the spring assembly I was putting in was 2.5" longer than what I removed, I chose to use a spring compressor to make sure the rubber spacer entered its' seat without distorting due to me man-handling it.  If you choose to use a compressor, use a compact type and check the orientation before you compress the spring.  Don't go to all the trouble to compress the spring only to find out when you place the spring in its' spot, you can't turn the compressor screws!  Orient it so you can easily back the tension off the compressor.

Here's what the rear looked like after installation (like a Hot Rod !!)

FRONT INSTALL
Total Time: 5 hrs w/ beer breaks (So what?  I like breakfast food...!)

I first started off by removing the belly pan (it's NOT a skidplate!) to have better visibility.  I worked on one side at a time, but if supported properly, you can do both sides.  Support the frame on jackstands pretty high in the air.  Do not support on the lower control arms, as you will need the suspension to cycle properly.  Remove the wheel and tire.  Disconnect the sway bar end links.

You now can remove the lower shock eye bolt.  I had to use a brass drift to drive the bolt out, but it wasn't too tough.  Take off the three nuts at the top of the shock tower, and the strut assembly should come right out.  The factory spring length is 14.5" and the PP lift spring is 15.0", so again to achieve the lift, the spring must be a higher rate.  I don't think the PP progressive spring is a good application w/ the Downey spacer because the spacer essentially preloads the spring to the extent that the top coils are compressed together even before installation.

Using a spring compressor, compress the stock spring approx. 1.5", enough to loosen the nylock nut on the shock shaft while holding the shaft tip w/ a crescent wrench.  Be careful.  Do not remove the nut unless the top spring seat is loose !  If it's still under tension, compress the spring more.
Pay attention to the order of removal of the following.  After removing the nut, upper rubber bushing, and top spring seat, remove the lower rubber bushing and retainer cup from the shaft.  Included w/ my Downey spacers were new retainer washers, rubber bushings, and mounting bolts.  While holding the shock body in a padded vise, lower the spring over the shock and position onto the lower spring seat.  Place a retainer washer and rubber bushings onto the shaft.  Remove the rubber isolation pad from the stock upper spring seat and fit to the bottom of the Downey spacer.  Make sure you have the spacer oriented correctly, the "cupped" end is the top and the "flat" end is the bottom.  Compress the new spring. Since this spring is slightly longer, and the spacer "occupies" space normally taken up by the spring, you'll really have to compress the snot out of the new spring.  Once compressed, fit the Downey spacer onto the top of the spring with the shock shaft extending up thru the centering hole and tighten the nylock nut.  I reused the nylock nut because it was still in very good condition.

Now comes the fun part !  There are a few different methods of installing the now-longer strut assembly.  One is pure brute force - 6 gorillas on the end of a 8 ft bar levering down on the lower control arm.  Two is to use the spring compressor to try to shorten the strut enough to force it in while 2 gorillas on a 4ft bar lever down on the control arm.  Three is to pop the upper ball joint to free the lower arm to pivot as low as it wants to go, and bolt in the strut.
Since it was only me, I chose the latter (although I can pass as a gorilla if needed..)

Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut on the upper ball joint.  Loosen, but don't completely remove the castle nut.  Use a small two-jaw gear puller to pop the ball joint shaft free of the upper control arm.  It may take some grunt...one side popped very easily, while the other side took a beer and 4 dirty words before violently releasing.

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